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It's only a small grave, a rectangle of cheap concrete marking it out, blessed by a flourish of wild yellow lilies.

The site was rediscovered in 1984 by a team led by researcher Onik Khnkikyan.Prowling around the church-mosque enclosure, I found some of the prison bars still attached to the window frames, although the building has been functioning as a mosque since 1986.The main gate was closed but I pushed it open and found not only that the structure of the magnificent building is still intact but that scaffolding has been placed against the walls for a renovation.Behind the church – and separate from the building – was an ancient stone cave whose interior was blackened with what must have been the smoke of candle flames from another era, perhaps a worshipping place because the cave appears to have been a tomb in antiquity.The caretaker came fussing up to us to tell us that the mosque was shut, that we must leave, that this was a closed place.

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